The cruise through the northern islands of Indonesia was somewhat uneventful and relaxing apart from a little hiccup with the autopilot compass getting a bit confused after the equator crossing and wanting to steer us back 180 degrees – a magnetic anomaly? We had to keep convincing it that we wanted to go further north and everything was ok – only upside down if you are a compass calibrated in the southern hemisphere. And then we hit the Singapore Strait. OMG. Smoke haze from Sulawesi was being blown across Singapore and visibility was very poor. Those of you who know the Singapore Straits will appreciate our apprehension at trying to cross the one-way channels straining our eyes to see ships emerge from the smoke gloom and hoping that their radar equipment told them we were there before they actually ran over the top of us. Singapore harbour and Straits are extremely busy waterways and we kept a close watch on the countless ships traversing the channels. We did eventually cross both channels and decided to drop the anchor for the night just inside Singapore waters – fingers crossed we would not be questioned by the marine authorities as we did not have the required papers. We had a very quiet night anchored amongst the tankers (flying the Singapore flag), until first light when we dodged our way through the shipping traffic and up the river to Malaysia (now flying the Malaysian flag of course) under the watchful eye of the numerous Singaporean police patrols. You see, the middle of the River is the border – Singapore one side, Malaysia the other. Police boats one side, fishermen the other.
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| This village is built on stilts out over the water |
We arrived in Danga Bay Marina on 20th October to be greeted by an Australian accent over the radio. The Marina Manager is Australian. He sailed here, liked it so much he decided to stay. The marina, in the last throes of completion, is free of charge to the fleet (except for electricity usage) and very comfortable. The office staff are friendly and accommodating and we are happy to be here. Well, here’s the thing……the engine (I know, I know, not the engine AGAIN) but the engine has been threatening to give us grief by spewing oil all over the bilge making a big mess and progressively getting worse. We must say that it just keeps ticking over and sounds quite good following some TLC from our friends on ‘Amulet’ and ‘Sunray II’ but the oil is now sending us a different message. So after a walk to the local service centre we are put in touch with a mechanic. Let’s hope the Malay mechanics are not like the dodgy Australian mechanics that obviously didn’t do their job properly. But don’t start us on that story eh?
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| Luxury |
We also visit the nearest shopping mall and discover ‘PappaRoti’ a bakery that bakes only sweet coffee cream rolls YUM, a Thai Massage Shop and an Optometrist. The crew broke her glasses around Komodo somewhere and has been using the cheap magnifying sets laying around the boat so while the Skipper wallows in the luxury of an hour-long massage, the crew has an eye test, orders multi-focal lenses and new frames – delivered in 4 days – for around $140 Australian. She is very happy. The skipper on the other hand comes limping out of the massage shop after having himself tied in knots and pummeled from head to foot saying “I think I feel better, not sure yet, give me a minute”. He did enjoy the Ginger Tea though. I’m pleased to say a couple of days later he is feeling a bit more flexible and indeed is talking about returning for more torture.
We find this southern end of Malaysia totally civilized and reminds us a little of Australia (they drive on the same side too) and after a bus trip out to the ‘Jusco’ complex which is every bit a ‘Westfield’ shopping town we now feel a bit sad that Indonesia and its raw charm has been left behind. But of course the shops helps the crew feel a bit better (especially the shoe shops). Not to mention the numerous eating cafes dotting the shoreline – all of which serve basic, tasty and cheap cheap cheap meals so eating out is very affordable.
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| A government building in the traditional style |
Sail Malaysia gets in full swing with activities on the shore, tours to local shopping centres and briefings about the next four ports of call. We enjoyed the official rally dinner – which was actually Chinese cuisine – and a day tour to a national park mangrove area, a ‘mock’ Malaysian wedding, a sumptuous lunch and a tour of a Pineapple Museum. Yep, they have a museum dedicated to Pineapples – it’s more of a research facility actually and yes, they research Pineapples. OK. Our tour guide was a very informative man with a wonderful sense of humour which made the day pass very quickly.
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| The southern-most tip of mainland Asia |
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| A pretty RED pineapple |
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| Aww, the bride and groom |
Now a few days later, it is becoming more and more obvious to us here on Bluestone that with the engine pulled down, the anchor winch pulled apart AND the generator in bits, we just might be staying here and waving goodbye to the fleet. Oh well, there’s always next year. Nothing to do but look for cheap flights back home – hopefully around Christmas time.
We have made a few trips to the local auto parts and mechanical shops to be greeted with friendly, helpful advice and further to the many shopping malls that we get to hear about from fellow cruisers. To hail a bus (going in the general direction) we stand outside the marina building on the main road and flag down a bus – if it stops we can ask if it is going to… wherever we want to go. Sometimes we pay 2.4RM sometimes we pay 2RM, sometimes it goes in the bus machine, sometimes it goes in the driver’s pocket. Huh? But we always end up getting to where we need to be. And… on the way home, cross the road to flag a bus going in the opposite direction to ask if he is going back to Danga Bay. Very easy. Actually, one bus stopped the other day to ask if we wanted Danga Bay Marina (white people in this area generally come in yachts).
………………………….We have now been in the marina for 3 weeks and said farewell to the majority of the fleet continuing North with the Sail Malaysia rally. We will not be going with them this year. There are several boats staying here and one that had to return after weathering a storm and having their mizzen mast flattened. Unfortunate for them, but at least we will have company. Not that we feel alone, we are enjoying Malaysia very much. We have family visiting for a few days so it’s time to explore the region and Singapore too – legally this time. But for now, a glass of something cold, decide where we will eat tonight and contemplate the next few weeks – decisions, decisions (BIG SIGH).
