BACK TO DANGA BAY

Yes Indonesia beckons again (for one reason or another - watch this blog). 

And so Danga Bay here we come to ‘check-out’ of Malaysia. 

Funny, when we were cruising north the wind was directly on our nose and we discussed how nice it would be if we were cruising south (to have the wind behind us).  Well….now we were discussing how nice it would be if we were northbound.  Can’t win.  Welcome to cruising.

Fresh clean drinking water bubbling up through the sand at our beach BBQ

We motored to Penang after a farewell beach BBQ with friends at Langkawi and again put our anchor down at Junk Anchorage.  Promising ourselves a little more time in Penang we managed to visit Fort Cornwallis - the fort built in 1786, actually served more like an administrative and storage facility for the British and there is not much left, but it's worth an hour walk around.  DYK (that’s ‘did you know’) Penang was actually founded by Captain Francis Light whose son was Surveyor-General for the town of Adelaide?  There is a statue of Capt Francis Light in Fort Cornwallis.  Exciting I hear you say, but wait there's more.

And….we went to Khoo Kongsi.  

The famous Khoo Kongsi is the grandest clan temple in the country. The clan temple has retained its authentic historic setting, which includes a traditional theatre and the late 19th century row-houses for clan members, all clustered around a granite-paved square.  We were there for the ‘Festival of Light’.  Didn’t know what to expect but actually weren’t expecting a talent show from the local dance studio.  Very enjoyable anyway. 

Khoo Kongsi temple

A few other attractions were on the agenda but really if you walk down any street in Penang you can see wonderful architecture and temples amid houses, shops and markets.  Catching a bus to anywhere is a good way to spend a couple of hours and see what there is to see, and you don't have to worry about the traffic.  Penang is very much worth a visit and even better if you are prepared to just wander around the streets.  We spent a delightful hour in a curios shop talking to the owner who had collected bits and bobs from old houses around Penang – fascinating.  We also found a good street market.

Lovely archiecture

What about some cabbage mister?

We stumbled across some cruisers we knew while we were in Penang and were a bit perplexed to hear they were going to the “Line Dancing on Stilts” exhibition the next day, or at least that's what we thought we heard.  A very confused skipper and crew were dumbfounded by the excitement exhibited by these cruisers looking forward to the Line Dancing on stilts.  How the heck do you line dance on stilts?  Silly us.   Finally it dawned on us…..LION dancing on stilts. 

This traditional Chinese dance is often mistakenly referred to as a dragon dance but you can tell the difference as a lion is operated by two people, while a dragon need lots of people. Also, in a lion dance, the performers' faces are covered, since they are inside the lion. In a dragon dance, the performers can be seen as the dragon is held up on poles.   

And, Lion dancing on stilts requires these boys who have their faces covered, to jump and cavort on the top of poles (stilts) which stick up out of the ground at varying heights.  No mean feat when the boy at the rear of the lion often lifts the boy at the front on his shoulders.  This and without missing a beat of the movements of the lion, is all done atop the poles. 

The lions we saw at Belitung

So now clear on the LION dancing we declined joining the fun as we had seen this traditional dance while on the Island of Belitung and wanted to prepare for our departure but not before we visited the Pinang Peranakan Mansion commonly known as 'The Green Mansion'.  This Mansion was once owned by a very wealthy Chinese Politician and for a small fee you can wander around and even enjoy a cup of Penang coffee - takes your head off but good all the same.

Beautiful Bonsai in the 'Green mansion'

Fine embroidery

Beautiful rooms in the 'Green Mansion'

Leaving Penang we head down the Malacca Strait stopping at Rimau Island, Burnum River, Pangkor island, Lumut and Port Klang.  Lumut was where we hoped to catch up with some Australian friends also cruising the Strait, but unfortunately they were both ill and so we banned them from coming aboard.  Sorry, next time.  Here, we had been advised to adhere to strict anchoring procedures in the Dinding River and on advice anchored as close as possible to the starboard channel marker, keeping the way clear for tugs towing small islands (barges filled with sand).  

We did anchor close to the marker and well out of the way but were amused to watch 'Maritime Malaysia' once again.  Could this be the same boat that had trouble anchoring at the island north of Penang?  Seems they have come up with the solution.  Just tie up to the starboard marker.... yeah that will fix it.  Won't drag anchor tonight.

Why didn't we think of that?

Cruising only during daylight hours we avoid the unlit fishing boats which cannot be easily seen at night.  They also have nets out and these you cannot see very well at any time – we often had to make last minute course changes as we approach the small flags or buoys attached to the nets.   Very exciting  NOT.

Next stop Port Klang.   Hmmm Port Klang.  By the time we were entering the Klang River the wind and swell had taken its toll on us and the fact that a small engine oil leak was persistently persevering we decided to take a mechanical sabbatical and put an end to the drip.  Thank goodness for Multimax Engineering in Port Klang.  Oh how we were glad to meet Martin and Ruth at Mulitmax.  This lovely English couple have been in Port Klang for 5 years having sailed from Bristol.  Now swallowing the anchor they have established the mechanical business.  What a find!  The only good thing about the Royal Selangor Yacht Club and the Klang River is Martin and Ruth.  Thanks for everything, we enjoyed meeting you.

The name ‘Royal Selangor YC’ conjures elaborate expectations doesn’t it?   The office staff and one ground staff member in particular were fabulous.  However, don’t go expecting to have a berth with power and water.  Do however, expect to be tied to a floating jetty with NO water or power, a few cleats that are not rusted through and a ‘Jingo’ service every hour (if you are lucky) to take you to the mainland if you want.  Or you can just stand there wave and yell because they forget to do the hourly run.  Works ok. 

Also expect all types of wildlife to approach your boat as islands of rubbish float past up and down river with the tides.  A simple “Skipper can you come here NOW” works well to shoo away unwanted four-legged, forked-tongue MONSTER guests.  For all this and more (like the smell at low tide) you will pay a fee.  How boring life can be for land lubbers eh? 

Skipper keeps an eye on the 'rubbish' island making way upstream

Ah, the engine is back together and sounds wonderful. Blasted oil leak is still there though.  We just couldn’t locate it.  Poor old engine, bound to use a bit of oil I’m told.   Mmmmm.   When the mechanic (Martin) sent the head away for whatever they do to it (I’m a girl OK) it came back with “Martin” boldly painted on it obviously to identify the person who brought it in to the workshop.  Of course now with this name indelibly  emblazoned on the side, we have decided that the engine’s new name just has to be MARTIN.  What do you do?

With Port Klang behind us we continue south anchoring at Port Dickson, the Water Islands, Pisang Island and on the last day with the wind and tide in our favour we continued on up the Singapore Strait directly to Danga Bay and into our old berth. 

Ah, familiar arches seen from our anchorage at Port Dickson

Another familiar sight - storm approaching Danga Bay

Hello everyone, we’re baack!

Nothing much is new at Danga Bay, the Aussie chef has left the restaurant, oh how we will miss him.  Never mind the ‘beach’ will have our usual food.  Uh oh, they weren’t here last time.  Worried look.  Thank goodness the Satay Man is still there and the boss hasn’t changed either.  We are welcomed back with enthusiasm.   Price of beer has gone up though !!!!

And... there's always dinner on board anyway

So it is here we will organize paperwork for Indonesia, and trust me, the paperwork is phenomenal to enter Indonesia, but we will persevere and look forward to the island of Batam and the Riau island group (as soon as we (meaning crew) clean what Port Klang left on the deck, covers, topsides and waterline.  Eeuuw! what is that anyway?  It’s moving!  Skipper come here NOW please.

Just joking. 

Nice clean boat in dirty Danga water