Rote Ndao 3 – 7 August 2010
Here is a developing government only having had power since 1999 (the Kingdom disbanded) and desperately trying to catch up to the rest of the world. The capital town of Ba’a is small and friendly and again, they are so happy to have us visit. The streets are small but surprisingly free of litter (until you look down the alleyways) however the streets are in better condition than in Kupang. We have 3 days of tours, travelling what felt like every inch of the island and each night a dinner back in the town with officialdom present. On our first day we arrive too late to join the tour but partake of the Gala Dinner (Rote style) meeting the officials and their wives, enjoying the food, music and dancing into the night. The officials wives are dressed beautifully and we feel a little out of place in our shorts, t-shirts, thongs and sun-kissed cheeks.
Our beautiful entertainment
And then we have a go !
Day 2 - We are informed that the next day’s tour will depart at 0400hrs to take us to a mountain lookout to see the sunrise (they don’t realize we see the sunrise a LOT on yachts). So we all arrive on shore next morning at 4am rubbing sleep from our eyes to pile into the truck converted into a bus (much like a cattle truck) that takes us up into the mountains. Once there we now tackle around 200 steps ascending further up the mountain to a spectacular view of the other side of the island and a slightly disappointing sunrise. The weather is somewhat unusual at this time of year, cloudy, windy and not very comfortable for anchoring and we are a little late in arriving for the sunrise anyway. However, breakfast is served and we enjoy the effort taken to show us this spectacular sight. 
The entrance to the steps - this was taken AFTER the walk - a tired group.
On the return journey we visit remote villages where we can wander through in awe of the traditional way of life on Rote and the friendly waves of the locals – always a hit with the children – and we give our leftover breakfast boxes to the village people. Meandering around the island we visit the ‘old house of the King’ and here we learn that our official government representative host, the Minister for Tourism, is the son of the last King of Rote and this is his old house. He takes delight in telling us that his father had 40 wives and he wants more but his one current wife won’t let him! We are entertained here again by the musical instrument, the Sasando, and traditional dancing and are encouraged to try our hand at this ancient art. Lots of laughs here folks. After lunch at the ‘old King’s house’ we once again drive through villages back to Ba’a for a ‘nap on the yachts’ as is scheduled in our official itinerary (they have thought of everything) and then once again enjoy dinner in the city. 
A traditional dance at the Old house of the King
And again, we have a go !
Day 3 – Today we are taken, again in the truck/bus to visit a government primary school in a remote area and as we have been warned prior some cruisers are able to take some pencils, books and tennis balls to give to the headmaster for the classes. So many children here are barefoot as although the government supplies the uniforms, school building and teachers, they have no water and no shoes. We wish we could have brought some thongs with us. The children are happy to see us albeit a little apprehensive as no doubt they have not seen a white person before and the crowded children part like disturbed flocks when we walk through them all the time not taking their eyes off us. By the end of the visit they are happy to have their photo taken with us – more of a joy for us I think, than them. Lunch is then served at Bo’a beach enroute to Nembrala beach, a popular place for surfers from all over the world. Here we can buy cold Bintang beer at the small resort and kick back on the sand for a lazy hour or two before the back-breaking ride to a natural spring to have a well-earned swim in the warm, soft water. Exhausted, we arrive at the yachts to have another scheduled ‘nap’ before a scrumptious farewell dinner. Rote was expecting many more people and yachts from ‘Sail Indonesia’ to stop here in 2010 and the handful that arrived are grateful and honoured to have been looked after so well, we will take away a bit of Rote Ndao in our hearts. Rote government are so desperate for assistance and guidance and tourism, they constantly thank God for our safe arrival and ask that we spread the word that Rote is a safe, happy, welcoming place to visit. We were warned prior to our departure in Australia that Indonesia is a Muslim country and that may be true the further north we go but here the people ensure that they tell us they are Christian, not Muslim and the abundance of churches confirm that the Muslim religion is the minority – maybe not so further north.
The school children
Day 4 – We can relax a bit today. We take washing ashore to the local Hotel – the poor girl had a fit when she saw how much Bluestone had (we had not done washing since leaving Darwin) but a price is negotiated and the crew is all smiles as she got out of the horrible chore. Yay. Wandering around the small town, children are our greatest fans calling “hello mister” and giggling. Everyone waves and greets us with “selamat pagi” (good morning) and we feel very special. Another last minute dinner BBQ has been arranged by the Minister this evening following his purchase of 100 fish - we suppose he just feels like socializing - however this skipper and crew are happy just to have chicken and chips on board and have an early night.
The main street of Ba'a, Rote
Day 5 – Another quiet day tidying the yacht, cleaning the cockpit, re-stocking the fridge, trying desperately to connect to the internet (it’s Saturday, don’t think they have internet on the weekend) in fact our attempts to connect are futile at the best of times. So we collect the hand-washed, immaculately ironed and folded laundry and take time to visit our friends on ‘Sunray II’ to discuss the next day’s destination. We will depart Rote tomorrow and head for our next destination of Sabu stopping for a couple of nights at Ndao.
